Photos from this walk:

The Walking Guide
Gornergrat descent to Zermatt

Description:  This beautiful walk features fine views to the Matterhorn and all of Zermatt's other great peaks. A long, but moderate descent takes one through a vast diversity of alpine environments; from rocky tundra, to high alpine lakes and pastures, through peaceful forests, even by some fine mountain restaurants. Wildlife of all descriptions can be abundant on this walk, especially in the early mornings and evenings.
Time required: About three hours walking (all downhill), plus about 45 minutes on the Gornergrat train ascent.
Difficulty: ***  A long moderate descent            Popularity: **** Popular
Begins at: Gornergrat (3100m altitude)                Ends at: Zermatt (1620m)      Goes via: Rotenboden (2815m), Riffelalp (2222m), Winkelmatten (1670m)

Track Notes: The top section of this descent - from Gornergrat to Rotenboden - can be crowded with casual walkers in July and August (***** popularity). After Rotenboden however the trails become progressively quieter. To have this walk all to yourself - even in July/August, try walking early morning or in the evening after 5 or 6pm. As an added bonus, there is almost the certainty of seeing lots of wildlife at these times.
Be prepared for potentially cold and breezy conditions on the upper part of this walk. Equally suncream may be a necessity. Be prepared for every eventuality, although this walk does offer good views to the west where the prevailing weather comes from.
Gornergrat train costs - one way trip: Adults: sFr.43   Children 6-16: 50% off. Children up to 6: free.  ID required for children's prices. Also discounts for holders of SwissRail Pass and Half Fare cards (50% off).
Variants: Using the Gornergrat train it is possible to break your journey at any of the intermediate stations should you wish (Riffelalp, Riffelberg, Rotenboden). Although there is no great necessity to do so as you will walk nearby all of them in the descent.

The walk begins in the mountains at Gornergrat (3100m altitude). To get up to Gornergrat from Zermatt you can walk of course (5 hours uphill), but for this walk we recommend taking the train in order to save time and energy.

The Gornergrat railway ('Gornergratbahn') is located directly opposite the main train station in Zermatt. Buy your tickets to Gornergrat and wait for a train. Trains normally depart every 24 minutes, and take about 45 minutes to ascend to Gornergrat.  The view from Gornergrat station (3090m) is simply magnificent - certainly one of the finest mountain panoramas anywhere in the world. Eyes can feast upon uninterrupted views extending for 180 glorious degrees from Monte Rosa to the Matterhorn (photo below).

The magnificent panorama from near Gornergrat. 
Available in Half Size - 86kb or Full size - 262kb

For fine views in all directions, walk uphill for five minutes past the big hotel and restaurant, to the gentle rounded summit of Gornergrat (at 3130m). Benches, telescopes and maps naming the various mountains are all on hand.

When ready, walk back down to the railway station. Behind the station a signpost points downhill to Rotenboden, Riffelalp, and Zermatt. Follow the trail downhill, next to the railway track, in the direction of the Matterhorn. The first section of this walk - from Gornergrat to Rotenboden and the Riffelsee lakes - is very popular. Consequently there are paths descending everywhere. Simply take any path down, keeping the railway line in sight to your right. After a few minutes reach a three way intersection, and take the left to Rotenboden. This wide trail stays to the left of the railway line, and in another minute goes over a gentle rise. The view opens up below to the little peak of the Riffelhorn and the lakes of 'Riffelsee'. We are aiming for the lakes, so proceed with any of the well used paths downhill. The trail zigzags down a short rocky section.

Approaching the lakes, the tiny railway station of Rotenboden is passed above to your right. Continue on any path to the lakes (2757m). Fine photos of the Matterhorn can be had in the lakes' reflection, but only if there is no breeze to ruffle its surface. Early mornings are best for this.

Continue on to the second lower lake by any path, walking under the rocky wall of the Riffelhorn. Just past the second lake there is an unmarked intersection. Take the left path descending. The trail goes down gradually a few more minutes before another three way intersection. Again take the lower path to the left in the direction of the Matterhorn. 

Keep your eyes peeled for Steinbok, Ibex, marmots and other wildlife from now on. The path descends through a pleasant mix of rolling pasture and rocky outcrops for about ten minutes to another three way intersection ("Gagenhaupt" - 2565m). Take the left path and after a bare 100 yards/metres come to another three way intersection. Take the lower left in the direction of the 'Gornergletscher' and Riffelalp. Walk around a big rocky outcrop.

The path then becomes a delightful single track as it traverses a very steep high alpine pasture. Far below to one's left are the rushing waters of the 'Gornera' river, which has come from under the Gorner glacier. Always towering overhead is the Matterhorn, and there are fine views ahead across the valley to the  Dent Blanche, Gabelhorn massif, Zinal Rothorn, and soon after to the beautiful white pyramid of the Weisshorn.

After another kilometre the path reaches an 'X' intersection. Take the left font route in the direction of Riffelalp, Ritti and Zermatt. After a few more paces Zermatt itself can be clearly seen below, as well as the lift station of Furi further up the valley. The path curves around to the right and fine views can be had north over Riffelalp to the Täschhorn and Dom. 

Soon the path drops steeply towards Riffelalp in a series of zigzags and steps, before levelling out at the treeline. Cross a small stream or two before the path parallels another trail immediately below. The two trails meet by a large wooden sign advertising the 'Chämi-Hitta' restaurant. Indeed that is where we are aiming, so take a steep narrow trail as it descends to a four wheel drive track (piste in winter). Follow this wide clearing the last few hundred yards down to the Chämi-Hitta. The Chämi-Hitta (2114m) is a truly charming little restaurant with superbly intimate view across to the Matterhorn.

The path goes left by the Chämi-Hitta with a signpost by a cross. Descend on a broad footpath another ten minutes through delightful forest , until reaching another broad grassy slope (winter piste). A sign points in the direction down the slope to Ritti. The piste turns left very soon, passing another sign, before another sign points the way into the forest onto a footpath again in the direction of Ritti's. The broad path continues its downhill journey through zigzags and forest to a clearing and the charming restaurant Ritti (1900m). 

Continue to the right of the restaurant onto another series of steep zigzags descending through the forest, until one reaches the tarmac of the Furi-Zermatt road (1800m). A sign points to the continuation of the footpath just across the road in the direction of 'Moos'.

More zigzags descend downhill through the forest until another clearing cutting through the forest (piste in winter). Take a right turn (north) onto the 'piste'  in the direction of 'Moos'. Continue straight on the piste/four wheel drive track, passing barns and pastures until shortly reaching the tarmac road again. A signpost points downhill in the direction of Winkelmatten. Follow the road as it winds gently down past the restaurant Moos, past more barns and pasture to Winkelmatten - which is an outskirt of Zermatt. Cross the big road bridge to the north. From the nearby restaurant Waldhaus one can go right through Winkelmatten to Zermatt or continue straight past the restaurant and onto Zermatt via the 'Matterhorn' lift station ('Matterhornbahnen'). A multitude of paths lead back to the center of Zermatt from Winkelmatten, none much longer or prettier than any other.