Photos from this walk:

The Walking Guide
Zermatt to Höhbalmen

Description: This stunning hike has it all: unbeatable views to the Matterhorn north wall, excellent views to most of Zermatt's other big mountains. There are wildflowers, wildlife, and a real wilderness feel to most of the trail. There are even some nice mountain restaurants towards the beginning and end of the walk. Without a doubt this is one of the finest mountain hikes in the Alps and indeed, the whole world.
Time required: About five hours (3 hours uphill at start / 2¼ hour downhill)
Difficulty: ***  Long and steady uphill            Popularity: ** Quiet
Begins at: Zermatt (1620m altitude)                 Ends at: Zermatt                 Goes via: Edelweiss (1961m - 1 hour walk from Zermatt), Trift (2337m - 2 hours), Höhbalmen (2665m - 3 hours), Zmutt (1936m - 4¾ hours)

Track Notes: Good shoes are required for some loose rocky sections. A picnic among the heights of Höhbalmen can be recommended in fine weather. But be sure to take a wind and waterproof jacket on this hike. On the Höhbalmen heights, you'll find no shelter from poor weather. Also beware of the shaggy mountain sheep on the higher reaches of this walk. Some of the rams can be surprisingly aggressive.

This hike to Höhbalmen is sometimes also called the 'Edelweiss Way' or 'Edelweissweg' in german.

Variants: It is possible to extend this walk to the Schönbiel Hut from the intersection just by the big waterfall. 

The walk begins and ends in the center of Zermatt's main street (1620m altitude), just by the very well known Hotel Post complex and Grampi's Pub. You can find them in the main street, just 130 yards back down from the church towards the main railway station out of Zermatt. Opposite the Hotel Post is Grampi's Pub. A small cobbled laneway borders Grampi's Pub and leads off the main street uphill to the west. An inconspicuous signpost on the (laneway) wall of Grampi's also points uphill  in the direction of Edelweiss, Trift, etc.

Begin up the cobbled path behind Grampi's for 60 yards to a three way intersection. Continue straight on uphill past barns and smart wood and glass chalets as the path loops around past the smart new "Into the Hotel". Shortly beyond that the path reaches welcome pastures with a fine view to the right of the Mischabel group of peaks (Täschhorn, Dom). A few minutes of walking up through the fields brings one to a four way intersection (1720m). Take the highest path (right) to Edelweiss. The path ascends very steeply with the rushing waters of the Triftbach (Trift brook) below to your left. As one climbs higher there are clear views up to Edelweiss restaurant perched on its cliff top eyrie. 

Nb. Edelweiss restuarant is sometimes marked as 'Alterhaupt' on local maps.

After another few minutes another intersection (1780m) is reached below some cliffs. Take the left path to Edelweiss and shortly the path crosses the Triftbach below a gushing waterfall.  The trail threads through forest and continues steeply upwards via zigzags between a series of cliffs. Just below the largest cliff on which the restaurant Edelweiss perches is a good area for rock climbing. Beyond that one quickly reaches the restaurant (1961m).  Edelweiss offers snacks, drinks, and meals. There are terrific views from the restaurant terrace over Zermatt and (left to right) on to the Täschhorn, Dom, Unter Rothorn, Gornergrat and Breithorn. 

The second section of this walk is that to Trift (2337m), which is a further hour beyond Edelweiss restuarant. This section of the trail follows the rushing waters of the Triftbach up the the narrow and rocky Trift valley.  Behind the restaurant Edelweiss, a signpost at the three way intersection points uphill (west) in the direction of Trift. Begin by walking through a beautiful little pasture before the trail enters a magical mountain forest. Thankfully the trail is actually flat for a while here to give the legs a bit of a break from the relentless uphill nature of this walk.

After while the path does a zigzag through a cliff above the Triftbach, before crossing a bridge by a waterfall and a small hydro electricity outflow . On the north bank of the Triftbach now, the path continues its steady ascent west. Soon the view begins to open up - first to see the crown of the Wellenkuppe, then to its left the Ober Gabelhorn, and finally to their fine glaciers at the head of the Trift valley. 

Trift itself (2337m) is a delightful pastureland of wildflowers, marmots and mountain streams. Being protected from winds, it makes a fine place to stop for a break. The Trift hotel and restaurant offer walkers a place to lunch in July and August, but equally fine is a picnic by one of the crystal clear mountain streams. Trift is already very tranquil, but beyond Trift, this walk engenders a wonderful feeling of remoteness. From Trift to the Chalbermatten restaurant three hours walk away, you'll be beyond all human habitation.

From Trift the trail ascends the steep grassy hillside to the south. A signpost behind the Trift hotel indicates 'Höhbalmen'.  Cross the lovely Triftbach by one of several bridges and walk south to the hillside. The path rises rapidly above Trift via a series of zig zags, before traversing gradually uphill (south east). As one climbs higher the views begin to take one's breath away. Firstly back west towards the Gabelhorns and Wellenkuppe, then east to the Dom, Täschhorn, Alphubel, Rimpfischhorn, Strahlhorn.. 

Rounding a corner one reaches the large terraces and plateaus of the Höhbalmen. Views west to the Gabelhorn fade rapidly, but are replaced by an unobstructed panorama east to all of Zermatt's great mountains and perhaps most impressively - to the north wall of the Matterhorn. The views from here are simply magnificent. Be alert for wildlife for the next 90 minutes of this walk. This is one of the best areas around Zermatt for seeing Ibex, Steinbok, mountain sheep, and Stone Eagles. But beware walking amongst the mountain sheep in this area. Some of the rams can be surprisingly aggressive.

The trail then rambles across a pleasant mix of rocky scree and high alpine pasture directly south towards the awesome North Wall of the Matterhorn, until a branch in the path is reached by a park style bench. The left path descends directly and very steeply to Zermatt. Take the right path straight on to a corner with an unbeatable view to the Matterhorn (good spot for a picnic).

Beyond that the trail continues for 40 minutes in an easy and interesting traverse in a westerly direction far above the Zmutt valley, all the while with impressive views across to the north wall of the Matterhorn. The path skirts below the faces of the Gabelhorns to your right and crosses pasture, tiny streams and fields of rubble and scree before descending south in a few easy zigzags towards the valley floor. 

At the bottom of the zigzags the trail reaches a flat section by a stream and another intersection (2327m). Take the path left (east) back in the direction of Zmutt and Zermatt. Variant: continue right (west) upstream to the beautiful Schönbiel Hut at the end of the Zmutt valley.

Heading back to Zermatt, the path descends immediately beside a plunging waterfall of great beauty - one of the most attractive in the whole area (photo left). The path is relatively indistinct by the waterfall - simply descend by the waterfall. At the valley floor the path can be found turning left (east & 2240m altitude). From now on, the path follows the broad Zmutt valley the whole way back to Zermatt in a leisurely downhill stroll. From the base of the waterfall the trail makes its way through light larch forest on a pleasant easy trail (1 mile/1½ km) east to Chalbermatten - marked by its single restaurant (2105m). 

Another kilometer along the path passes above a dam and beyond that reaches a four way intersection (1972m). Continue straight on through down in the direction of Zmutt, which is reached in another 10 minutes. Zmutt is a beautiful and ancient mountain hamlet (1936m) set amid very fine pastures and wildflowers. In the village can be found a charming little chapel, and two nice restaurants: the Jägerstuße and Zmutt. The hamlet of Zmutt features many fine old barns and wooden houses. Some old residents of Zmutt apparently never even visit Zermatt. They feel it is too much like the "big city"!

From Zmutt to Zermatt is a straight forward downhill ramble of 50 minutes or less, often quite busy with walkers in July and August.